The Balcony Junior guide is up! But, before you download it and run out, take a second to read the access issues; there isn’t much.
Parking can be difficult here. As the guide touches on, there is a parking lot that serves as a school bus turnaround on the week days. There is only a small area to park here, once you find it (at the end of the small town of Sandy Hook) just remember the picture below.
Parking anywhere else could get you towed on weekdays or ticketed on weekends. Also, there’s not restricted or limited access right now, but where resources are scarce, in this case parking, is where access issues come from. Be smart and climb safe!
For anyone making use of Murray Hill as an after-work bouldering spot, you can add the Eden Brook boulder to your local tour! It may only be a single boulder but as Robin (the author of the guide) says, “[Its] decent variety of problems means there’s a little something for everybody.” So why not stop by?
As you’d expect with a small area, there are a few contrived problems, including a traverse that wraps the entire boulder, but don’t let that discourage you. Some of these eliminates look pretty good! If you’re not one to blindly believe it, maybe this video will help convince you:
And for some first hand beta:
On Tuesday I warmed up on two of the awesome arete problems, Original 19 and Hop Head, both fun but very different in terms of holds and movement. The first uses crimps and sidepulls on a slightly slabby surface, while the second follows crystally slopers up to an enjoyable compression finish. I also did Choriqueso, still on the easy side, though a little more intimidating due to the slab under your chin as you’re making the final move on smeary feet. Moving back to the left side of the boulder I climbed the slightly more challenging Shotgun Boh, a line up the right arete that I had managed to send last week. My plan at that point was to put in a couple hours of work on my project, a line that I had realized a few days beforehand was possible, starting seated and climbing up the two seams without using the right arete. It’s only about four moves long before the topout, but they’re four sustained moves requiring a great deal of core tension.
If you decide to stop by and check it out, drop a line in the comment box to encourage other climbers to get out, let people know about new variations, or maybe even other boulders nearby!
Rocks state park is a popular area just north of Bel Air with tall trad and top-rope lines and as it turns out, some pretty decent bouldering! There’s a video on Dead Point’s Stash of Jason Kehl revisiting the area after spending some years as a professional climber. But if you’re not up to forking over the money for a look behind DPM’s paywall, here are a few youtube videos for the area: