Routes are coming!

 

Update 11/15/13: The guide’s out and posted here!

The title sums it up: the first routes mini-guide is coming.  So far, this blog has been catering to the crash pad denizens, but it’s time to expand!

If you’ve tapped out Carderock, Rocks State Park, and Annapolis Rocks, Balcony Jr should give you some new terrain!  Here it is:

It’s (kind of) divided into two sections: one, with sport routes on very featured rock, and the other, mostly trad routes with gear gobbling horizontals.

One thing to point out is that there are sport routes here, which, if you’ve tried to find bolts to clip in maryland, you probably know that sport routes are few and far between.

The guide’s about finished and should be posted within the week; keep your eyes peeled!

And don’t forget to look back once you clip the anchors!

Eden Brook Grades

Pitch in for consensus grading!

Here‘s the original post.

The Eden Brook Boulder

For anyone making use of Murray Hill as an after-work bouldering spot, you can add the Eden Brook boulder to your local tour!  It may only be a single boulder but as Robin (the author of the guide) says, “[Its] decent variety of problems means there’s a little something for everybody.” So why not stop by?

As you’d expect with a small area, there are a few contrived problems, including a traverse that wraps the entire boulder, but don’t let that discourage you.  Some of these eliminates look pretty good!  If you’re not one to blindly believe it, maybe this video will help convince you:

And for some first hand beta:

On Tuesday I warmed up on two of the awesome arete problems, Original 19 and Hop Head, both fun but very different in terms of holds and movement.  The first uses crimps and sidepulls on a slightly slabby surface, while the second follows crystally slopers up to an enjoyable compression finish.  I also did Choriqueso, still on the easy side, though a little more intimidating due to the slab under your chin as you’re making the final move on smeary feet.  Moving back to the left side of the boulder I climbed the slightly more challenging Shotgun Boh, a line up the right arete that I had managed to send last week.  My plan at that point was to put in a couple hours of work on my project, a line that I had realized a few days beforehand was possible, starting seated and climbing up the two seams without using the right arete.  It’s only about four moves long before the topout, but they’re four sustained moves requiring a great deal of core tension.

If you decide to stop by and check it out, drop a line in the comment box to encourage other climbers to get out, let people know about new variations, or maybe even other boulders nearby!

The Eden Brook MDGuide